In 1878 Robert Louis Stevenson set out on a walking tour of the Cévennes behind Modestine the donkey that carried his baggage. The one hundred twenty-mile trip was through difficult country and Modestine proved to be less than agreeable too. Although Stevenson's adventure lasted only twelve days his account suggests a much longer journey with all sorts of backward glances detours and retracing of steps both on the terrain and in spirit.